Everest Trek Part 1:
Kathmandu to Namche
The lure of wandering among 8,000 meter monolith giants was too great to resist once we saw the down jackets and pants hanging from every shop in Kathmandu. What is it like to stand below Mount Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho oyu and see the earth scrape the sky at nearly 30,000 feet? We had to see what all the fuss was about and find out for ourselves if all this down feather insulation was really necessary. Luckily, our hotel mangers took us in and helped us carefully plan an 18 day trek to Everest Base Camp and to Gokyo Ri. A rookie Everest trekker may think the adventure starts on the trail or beyond 5,000 meters (16,404 feet). The truth is the adventure begins in the domestic terminal in Kathmandu and on the flight to Lukla. The domestic terminal lacks the standard gate supervision to which we are accustom, and the bus to the airplane runs a few errands on the way to the plane, like picking up the pilot, taking the flight attendant to the bathroom, and hauling our own baggage and fuel. It all makes for an amusing journey, until well on your way and with no option of backing out, the airplane splits mountain ridge lines and approaches the Lukla airport at 9,383 feet for the landing. Not to brag, but Indiana Jones is likely too scared to land on such a short mountaintop runway. The Lukla airport, known as one of the most dangerous in the world, has a minuscule 1,729 foot runway bookended by a 2,000 foot cliff and a stone wall. There is no room for error or second chances. To add a bit more intrigue, we also landed and starting hiking during a small forest fire. But once our quivering knees were safely on the ground and our boots hit the trail, we made like a herd of turtles up to Phakding (8,562 feet) for night 1 and Namche (11,286 feet) for nights 2-4. Along the way, we steadied our nerves to cross the numerous suspension bridges and braved the Hillary Suspension bridge hanging over 400 feet above the Dudh Koshi River. The slow road to Everest proved to be a worthy undertaking.
Thamserku (21,712 feet) near Namche Bazar
Since most of our trekking gear is riding out the winter safely in our basement at home, we spent an afternoon shopping for sleeping bags, socks, micro-spikes, and more in Kathmandu. We quickly learned there is “normal” and “real” gear—North Fake vs. North Face. So, we are now sporting a “normal” Patagonia fleece for $5 and new Marmot down sleeping bags for $80. We are optimistic we look “normal” and the gear “real”ly works at 5,000 plus meters.
The adventure starts at the airport. Without posted flight schedules, gate agents, or security, we are unsure if we should walk out onto the runway and find our plane. Can we borrow a yellow vest and some orange batons, please?
Killing two birds with one stone: on the bus ride to the plane, we picked up our luggage on the way. We like this, as it eliminates the question of whether your luggage is going to make to the destination.
The Army walked across the runway after their workout—it’s shorter than walking around.
Our bus picked up the pilot, as well as took the flight attendant to the bathroom on the side of the runway. Also, Susie and Mickie became fast friends on the trail later in the day. We miss them already!
Next, we picked up a fuel cart—at least that is what we think it is.
Finally, we made it to our plane!
Skimming over mountain ridges on the way to Lukla
Wow! This is a mountainous landing.
Tiny runway ahead: the Lukla airport has a 1,729 foot runway on a mountaintop with a 2,000 foot cliff on one side and a stone wall on the other.
The Landing
Lukla: The official start and end of the Everest Base Camp trek.
The official “Before” Portrait—they look and smell so fresh!
There are a lot of permits and permit checks required to enter the Everest region—we are legit!
We pass through many villages on our first couple of days of trekking.
At home we read about porters, however, their strength and heroism can not be comprehended until it is witnessed in person. The massive amount of weight and altitude they endure is incredibly impressive. This porter is carrying 45 kg—that’s 100 pounds using a strap around his head. His friend was carrying 55 kg.
Phakding: The Sherpa Guide Lodge was by far the most luxurious lodge of the trip—-a favorite, for sure!
The nicest and warmest room of the trek!
A trek to Everest includes a lot of hot chocolate and cards in the dining hall.
Cruising Phakding—our first overnight stay.
Phakding—west side of the river.
An example of a porter’s load.
New friends—Sam and Jeroen (NASA engineers on a mega honeymoon trip). If you are American and on the Everest Base Camp trek, you are most likely from Colorado—-gotta love that mountain culture! The home state represents when it counts!
Porters and animals make up the super highway of goods moving up and down the mountain.
Time to buy another permit.
Entering the National Park
The Hillary Suspension Bridge—the highest bridge in the distance over 400 feet high over the Dudh Koshis River. We can do it!
Nearing our lodge in Namche Bazar (11,286 feet)
The view from the dining room in Panorama Lodge in Namche lives up to the name. This is a good place to spend three nights acclimating to the high altitude.
Gary works and hikes!
Namche Bazar is the “capital” of the Himalayas
Acclimatization Hikes: walking high and sleep low for three nights.
Pointing to the Panorama Lodge in Namche
Hum….trying not to let this scare us for what is to come.
Bir and Pancha meet us in Namche to join us for the rest of the trek.
Panorama Lodge hosts and our guide, Pancha.
Namche Bazar
